Have you ever had your hands full while trying to open your tailgate? If so, you’ll already realize that if you don’t hold it on the way down, you’ll be greeted with a big slam as your tailgate freefalls – until the cables catch it and jerk it to a hard stop.

This not nice and easy on the cables or the mounting hardware of the gate. Fortunately, there is a way to fix this issue and have a nice and smooth opening tailgate, without you having to hold onto it all the way down.

The answer to the dropping tailgate is a simple little hydraulic damper, or assist. These little shock absorbers (or struts) attach directly to the tailgate and bed, slowing the tailgate down for a nice and easy descent.

There are a few manufacturers that make these tailgate dampers, and below I’ll go over the best options and deals for each of the different model trucks listed. If you are installing one of these assists yourself, you’ll find that it’s pretty straightforward for the most part, installation difficulty for most of these kits is about a 3-4 out of 10.

Tailgate assist for the 2015-2017 Ford F-150

• Ford OEM Tailgate Assist Kit FL3Z-99406A10-A

Without a doubt the best tailgate damper kit that you can get for the 2105, 2016 and 2017 Ford F-150 would be the one made by Ford. It’s designed to fit directly into factory mounting points, so no messing with aftermarket accessory fitment, which can be tricky in some cases.

Tailgate assist for the 2005-2014 Ford F-150

• DeeZee F-150 Tailgate Assist DZ43200

If you own a 2005-2014 F-150 then the best option for a tailgate damper is this retrofit model by DeeZee. The kit comes with everything you need to add it to your truck, including the strut and all required hardware. Only one damper is needed, there’s no need for a second kit.

Tailgate assist for the Ford F-250 and F-350 Super Duty

• DeeZee Tailgate Assist kit DZ43203

This kit is the one designed for the 1999-2106 Ford Super Duty trucks. Just like the other kits from Dee Zee, this one includes all required hardware and installation instructions in the box.

Tailgate assist for the Dodge Ram 1500-3500

• DeeZee Tailgate Assist kit DZ43301

If you own a Ram 1500 from 2009-2017 or a Ram 2500 and 3500 from 2010-2017, then this is the tailgate assist made specifically for your truck. As always, DeeZee has provided a Dodge Ram specific all-in-one kit that includes everything you will need for am easy, complete install.

Tailgate assist for the Chevy/GMC 1500, 2500 and 3500HD

• DeeZee Tailgate Assist kit DZ43102

In the more recent model years, the Chevy trucks have finally started to include a tailgate dampening system in the higher trim trucks like the SLE/SLT and LT/LTZ packages. However if you have an older truck or a base model, you were out of luck as far as having this installed from the factory.

Thankfully, once again DeeZee steps up to the plate to offer their all-in-one kit for GM trucks. This is certified to fit the 2009-2017 1500/2500/3500 and is more of a universal kit that can be adapted to a lot of the Chevy/GMC platform tailgates.

What do the truck owners have to say?

DeeZee has made quite the good name for themselves in the truck accessories market, and you can see that in their reviews, which reflect a lot of praise for their products.

Like anything aftermarket, there will always be a couple of hiccups in how the product fits initially or wears over time. This is standard for all aftermarket accessory manufacturers and doesn’t necessarily mean that the products are junk if they have a couple of issues across a wide range of models.

What really matters is how the company handles feedback from their customers about issues that need resolving in the next iteration of the product, and also how they handle the current customers that have the issues in the first place.

Below, you’ll see how they’ve dealt with the only real problem with the DeeZee assist kits and how they have resolved the issue going forward.

 Tailgate assist common problems

The early versions of the Dee-Zee assist in particular did have a frustrating issue that has since been fixed. The issue is with the nutsert that they provided to install the strut with. The nutsert allows you to add threads to a bare hole in your tailgate that wasn’t originally designed to have threads in it.

The problem is that the early version nutsert had a tendency to loosen up in the hole with the repeated rotation that the end of the strut subjects it to. Either the nutsert was just a little off in size, or didn’t have enough friction to hold itself in the tailgate.

Good news is that Dee-Zee has realized the issue, and eliminated the nutsert problem for all the new versions of their kits, and has even been assisting previous customers in fixing the original version.

Conclusion

Hopefully this overview and guide for the options available to add a tailgate assist have helped you in the search for the right kit for your truck. As always, feel free to reach out to us in the comments below if you have any questions or something to add to the conversation. Thanks for reading!

Starting in 2013 and continuing still to this day, the Dodge Ram 1500, 2500 and 3500 turbo diesel trucks all have a pretty significant design flaw.

Yep, that’s a fuel filler that comes from the factory with no cap. A cap-less fuel filler design, really?

What were you thinking Dodge!?

How exactly is the mediocre seal on the fuel door supposed to protect against water and dirt getting into the fuel filler neck?

Of course, Dodge will not admit to this being anything other than the design as intended, but they did release a part number for the people that inquired about missing “gas” caps; the Mopar part# 52029561AA, which is a quite thin and cheaply made green plastic wedge style cap. These do not seem to be durable at all, and still are questionable in their ability to keep out contaminants.

Fortunately, there are a couple options aside from what Dodge has (or hasn’t) provided:

Aluminum Fuel Cap

Thankfully the aftermarket has seen this issue and noticed that people in fact actually want to seal their fuel filler necks from getting crap down into the tank.

The main problem that you’ll have when trying to add a normal fuel cap to one of these dodge trucks – there just isn’t enough room for a regular old gas cap to sit in there and still have the fuel door close.

This is why these billet aluminum caps have such a low profile, so that they can actually fit perfectly in the filler, seal it with an o-ring and still have space for the door to close.

Fuel And DEF Cap Combo

If you would prefer a more uniform look, there is a combo set available that combines the DEF and fuel cap replacements together in one kit.

OEM Style Plastic Cap

Aside from the thin green plastic cap, Dodge actually has another style of cap that is more robust and seems like it would do the job of protecting the open fuel filler system.

The part number for this cap: Mopar/Chrysler 82214609.

It does also come with a tether to keep the cap attached and from being lost, a nice feature for those of us that sometimes misplace our fuel caps when refilling our trucks in the morning before coffee.

Conclusion

Hopefully this guide has helped you to find the best options for replacing your truck’s missing fuel cap. If you have any more questions or input about this issue, feel free to drop us a line below in the comments. Thanks for reading!

Compression tests have always been a go-to for uncovering any issues that an engine might have, and diesel engines are no exception to this rule.

At first glance, it seems like the testing procedure is very similar between gasoline engines and diesels, however testing compression on a diesel does have different requirements, procedures and tooling (namely adapters and high pressure gauges).

The biggest difference you’ll run into when testing a diesel is the pressures that these engines produce. They’re a great deal higher than a regular gasoline combustion engine, which means your test gauge will have to be able to take a greater PSI reading. I recommend going with at least a 1,000 PSI gauge in order to accurately read your cylinder pressures, many regular gauges only go up to 300 PSI which just won’t cut it.

Best Test Gauge for Diesels

This is the best option that I’ve found for a reasonably priced, high quality test gauge that reads up to 1,000 PSI (or 70 bar) which is what you’ll need for a diesel. Keep in mind that this is for the gauge only, you’ll also need to grab the correct adapter kit for your truck, if you keep scrolling I have the most popular adapters listed below.

Diesel Compression Test Kit

If you’re a professional mechanic or just someone that works on more than one type of truck, you’ll probably want to get a test kit that already includes the adapters for all the most popular diesels, instead of buying them piece by piece.

7.3L Powerstroke Adapter Kit

On the 7.3 compression testing is best done by removing the glow plugs and inserting the special adapter shown here:

6.0L and 6.4L Powerstroke Adapter Kit

The 6.0 is just like the 7.3 as far as removing the glow plugs to test. You’ll need this adapter for the 6.0:

5.9 Cummins Adapter Kit

All the years of the 5.9 require the injectors to be pulled in order to perform a compression test. This adapter replaces the removed injector with the 1/8 NPT fitting that works with most gauges.

2005+ 6.6L Duramax Adapter

This adapter threads into the glow plug hole of your Duramax and features a quick release connector to plug into a gauge.

Testing Procedure

Depending on which engine you have the test procedure will vary slightly in details, but the overall procedure is similar for most engines:

• Disable fuel injection
• Remove all glow plugs to reduce compression resistance
• Use the correct adapter to thread into the glow plug hole
• Attach the test gauge to the adapter
• Verify that ignition is disabled to prevent engine from starting
• Using a test jumper or remote switch, activate the starter directly
• Crank the engine for 4-5 revolutions
• Read and record the final PSI on the gauge
• Repeat for all cylinders and compare pressures

Compression PSI Specifications/Ranges

I’ve put together the PSI ranges that you should be looking for when doing your compression test. Keep in mind that a lot of these are the specifications for these engines when new or rebuilt. Engines with a lot of miles will naturally have lower PSI because of all the wear and tear.

Generally speaking, you’ll always want to look for the relative compression readings for all of the cylinders comparatively. A huge red flag is more than 75% difference between the individual cylinders.

Ford

• 7.3  365-475 psi is the acceptable range for the 7.3L Powerstroke.

• 6.0 375-425 psi is the acceptable range for the 6.0L Powerstroke.

• 6.4 340-375 psi is the acceptable range for the 6.4L Powerstroke.

Dodge

• 5.9 6BT The minimum psi spec for the 6BT is 350 psi.

Chevy/GM

• LB7 Minimum 350 psi.
• LLY Minimum 350 psi.
• LBZ Minimum 350 psi.
• LMM Minimum 350 psi.
• LML Minimum 350 psi.

Conclusion

We hope this guide has been helpful in answering any questions that you might have had about compression testing your diesel. If you have any questions or concerns, please feel free to post them in the comments section below. Thanks for reading!

In this guide, I wanted to cover an issue that many 6.0 and 7.3 powerstroke owners have run into, Injector stiction. Stiction is unfortunately quite a common problem with the fuel delivery system that these powerstrokes use, and can lead to serious issues with hard starts, rough idling, misfires and terrible overall driveability.

What is stiction?

The 6.0 and 7.3 Powerstrokes use hydraulically actuated electronically controlled unit injector (or HEUI) injectors. Contrary to most modern common rail systems, the HEUI is now an outdated system that was introduced by Caterpillar way back in the 90’s. Instead of using a high pressure injection pump to pressurize the fuel in the injector body (like you’ll find in newer diesels) the HEUI system uses oil that has been pressurized very highly, sent directly into the injectors, to create the required fuel pressure.

Basically, the oil pump pressurizes some of the engine oil, sends it to the HEUI system, which opens or closes a spool valve inside the injector, allowing the oil to push on the intensifier piston. This piston then converts the oil pressure into fuel pressure, and from there the fuel is injected into the cylinder at up to 4000psi.

The problem happens when the spool valve either has oil residue on it and becomes stuck, or when the engine oil becomes foamy to the point where the foam is creating a false injector pressure.

The bad part about this system is that it is affected by low quality fuel and oil, which is all too common and hard to avoid nowadays. Oil residue and foamy oil in the spool valve is the main issue with the HEUI system, and the best way to keep your injectors flowing well is to use an additive to clean them preventatively.

Frequent oil changes are very important for your Powerstroke, remember that the injectors need oil pressure in order to operate and changing and checking your oil is the best way to ensure that the injector system stays operational and in good working condition. The pressure that the HEUI system operates on the oil side can be greater than 3000 psi, which is just terrible for the longevity of your oil, it breaks down the molecules much faster and creates foam.

Another good reason to stay on top of your oil changes.

The best oil additive to cure your diesel’s stiction

There are a few additives out there that claim to fix stiction issues on the powerstroke injectors. Below I’ll cover a few of the most popular ones, and how well they work.

I’ve heard the most positive reviews on Rev-x out of all three of these additives. Some people claim that it solved their stiction issues within the first few hundred miles of driving, after adding a couple of these bottles of Rev-x to their truck after an oil change.

Because of the reviews I’ve read about success with this stuff bringing low performing injectors back to life, if a contribution code were to pop up on my truck I would start my troubleshooting with some fresh oil and a couple bottles of this stuff.

This friction modifier made by Archoil seems to be pretty much just as good as rev-x, and it costs less (per oz) too, which is why this is the stuff that I use on every oil change with my 6.0 already.

I don’t currently have any symptoms of stiction, like any hard start or rough idle issues with my truck (knock on wood) but I have seemed to notice a bit smoother acceleration since I’ve started incorporating it into my maintenance routine.

Hotshot’s secret gets many people saying good things about it as well, a lot of people happy with it fixing their stiction issues.  It’s cost is very cheap compared to the other options, and if I weren’t already happy with what Archoil does for me, I would probably give it a shot.

You really can’t go wrong with trying any of these friction modifiers really, they are all designed to do the same thing basically. If I had an OBD code staring me in the face, I’d start with the Rev-x, as that seems to have the most success with tough cases. For preventative maintenance though, I’d pick one of the other two, just because of cost.

Frequent oil changes

Changing the oil often on a diesel that uses high pressure oil in the fuel injection system is much more important than on a regular gasoline vehicle, and here’s why:

With the very intense pressures of the oil injector system, your oil is subjected to much more wear and tear than in a regular engine because of shear.

Shear is a way to measure the effects that mechanical stress has on your oil.  Being under huge loads like in a diesel injector system reduces the effective viscosity of the oil by a large factor.

This reduction of viscosity means that the oil is much more quickly thinned out in a diesel than a gasoline vehicle, and because of this it ends up being much less effective at lubricating.

In fact, the industry standard test for oil shear by ASTM International (D5275) actually involves running through a high pressure diesel injection system like in a powerstroke, and then comparing the viscosity to fresh oil.

Best oil for preventing stiction

So now that you know how important frequent oil changes are, let’s go over how to choose the best oil to run in your truck to prevent all of the nasty side effects of stiction.

The most important thing to consider when shopping for diesel oil is the additives that they use to protect against shear.

Below is a comparison of what I believe to be the best choice for oil in diesel engines that use a high pressure oil fuel delivery system.

Rotella T6 vs Delo 400LE

Let me start by saying that these two oils are the only kinds that I would ever consider running in my truck. It’s so much more important for these high pressure injector systems to have the right additives in the oil to prolong the inevitable thinning, and regular old wal-mart or whatever oil just won’t cut it.

Rotella T6 is the primary choice here, the additive profile of this oil is top notch, which ensures that it will be a very good choice for diesels that use a HEUI system.

That being said, Delo 400LE is also a great choice that is much more cost effective. The only caveat to the Delo oil is that it designed for the newer trucks because it was formulated to meet emissions specs for ’07 and up.

Cleaning the spool valve in the injectors

Sometimes, using an additive or changing the oil won’t be enough to clean off the oil residue that is clinging to the spool valves inside your injectors. In this scenario, you’re going to need to either replace the injectors, or pull them and clean the spool valves by hand.

This process is a bit involved, but doable. The best instructions  that I’ve seen for spool valve cleaning are in this video below:

Replacing worn injectors

So, what if you’ve already thrown the book at your Powerstroke by changing the oil, trying one of the additives, and manually cleaning the spool valves in the injectors – but nothing has helped?

More than likely you’re going to have to go with remanufactured injectors like the one below, in order to fix the problem if none of the above has resolved it for you.

Stiction Symptoms

Stiction rears its ugly head in the form of misfires on cold starts, rough and uneven idle, and hesitation when accelerating. These symptoms can continue even when the engine has warmed up fully.

Stiction and OBD DTC’s

If your injectors are not operating as they should due to stiction, this can lead to the engine computer throwing out some telltale OBD DTC’s:*

*Acronym Translation: OBD = On Board Diagnostics and DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Codes.

P0263 Valve train or injector cylinder #1 contribution/balance

P0266 Valve train or injector cylinder #2 contribution/balance

P0269 Valve train or injector cylinder #3 contribution/balance

P0272 Valve train or injector cylinder #4 contribution/balance

P0275  Valve train or injector cylinder #5 contribution/balance

P0278 Valve train or Injector cylinder #6 contribution/balance

P0281 Valve train or injector cylinder #7 contribution/balance

P0284 Valve train or injector cylinder #8 contribution/balance

FICM Causing Stiction Symptoms

The spool valves in the injectors operate when they receive a signal from the FICM (fuel injection control module.) It stands to reason, if your FICM is not operating correctly then you will get symptoms of stiction, the spool valves will act similarly to being clogged up if they aren’t receiving the correct signal from the FICM.

Aside from adding a stiction prevention additive, the other first step in troubleshooting a rough running powerstroke, is to test the FICM for the correct voltages. Check out the FICM repair guide for instructions on how to perform that test.

Welcome to our fuel tank roundup!

This guide is here to help you figure out what kind of tank your truck needs, whether you need an auxiliary tank for extending your range, a transfer tank for filling your equipment in the field or just a larger capacity factory replacement fuel tank.

First of all, let’s go over what each type of fuel tank does:

Transfer tanks are a remote fueling solution, they are a must-have for your truck if you are running any kind of equipment out in the field, as they keep you from the major inconvenience of having to trailer your equipment to the closest fuel station to fill up.

Auxiliary tanks are a way of extending the range of your truck, by adding another tank that feeds into your truck’s factory tank, you can massively increase fuel capacity.

Higher-capacity tanks are a replacement for your trucks factory tank, these aftermarket tanks take advantage of unused space under the bed of your truck to raise capacity and extend your driving range.

Form Factors

There are a few different styles to choose from when shopping for a transfer tank, some are specifically designed for higher capacity, some for the least size impact (slim rectangle tanks), and others have built-in features like lockable bed toolboxes.

We will go through the different styles and compare the best options from each category, so that you can choose the one that fits your use best.

Best L-Shaped Transfer Tanks

The L-shape of these tanks allows for higher capacity than the slim rectangle tanks, while still allowing you to have a good amount of bed space left for other things like your bed tool box.

The picture above is a good example of how you can use the transfer tank in conjunction with a truck bed toolbox, if you look closely you can see the L-shaped tank is tucked up under the toolbox in this truck bed. This a great option if you already own a truck bed toolbox, simply slide it in under your bed box for maximum fuel capacity and bed space.

Best Fuel Tank Toolbox Combo

If you don’t already have a bed toolbox and you’re looking for something that can store your tools and equipment, a fuel tank and tool box combo is probably the best fit for your needs. These boxes combine the versatility of having the fuel on-hand for your equipment, and also the tools that you need to get the job done out in the field.

Best transfer tank pump

Once you have your tank, you’ll need a way to get the fuel out of it and into your equipment or vehicles. The best way to do that is with a 12v electric fuel transfer pump.

Gravity Feed Auxiliary Tank Install

Gravity feeding is the simplest way to have your truck’s tank refilled from your in-bed auxiliary/transfer tank.

Basically all you need to do in order for this to work is to tie a small refill hose from the auxiliary tank right into your main truck tank’s fuel filler hose.

The easiest way to get this done is with an install kit. The kit comes with the fuel filler hose T fitting and a length of hose to connect to your aux tank. It also has a valve to close off the feed when not needed.

Depending on where you tie into the filler hose, you can usually leave the valve on constantly and fill your truck from your transfer tank, which will in turn automatically feed into the main fuel tank.

Best gravity feed install kit:

Choosing Tank Materials

Aluminum Vs. Steel Comparison

Figuring out which material is best for your new tank goes beyond how it looks and what is costs. The biggest deciding factor will be how you intend to use the thing. Will you be the operator that is out in the field with his excavation equipment running all day? Or do you only intend to use it for smaller jobs, like refilling a backup generator that only runs during grid downtime? These differences in usage can make or break choosing aluminum over steel, or vice versa.

Option 1 – Aluminum :

Aluminum transfer tanks use a metal that doesn’t rust. Ever. This means that the outside of your tank will always look pristine sitting in the bed of your truck. Rust is bad though, really bad, and for more reasons beyond just how the outside of the tank looks. One of the things that rusted steel does is it flakes apart into tiny little pieces. As you can imagine, tiny little flakes of rust in fuel are terrible for your equipment’s fuel system. No one wants to spend their evenings swapping out fuel filters.

There are a couple different options for exterior tank styles, if you care about that sort of thing. You can usually find aluminum tanks in two main styles, made from stamped sheet.  Usually you can order them in the classic polished silver diamond plate pattern, or with a durable black powdercoat finish.

Best part is, by choosing aluminum you never have to worry again about rust oxidation. These tanks are great for heavy duty use on a daily basis, as part of any job site operation. And as a bonus, they also keep fuels from becoming unusable during those long gaps in fill-up times.

Option 2 – Steel: 

Steel transfer tanks have always looked a bit more rugged to me. They’re built out of thicker metal than aluminum tanks, often resulting in tank walls that use up to 14-gauge steel.

Steel tanks need a coating for the exterior of the tank, for protection from the elements, and to prevent rust. On any good steel tank, you will find that a durable powder coating process is usually used to give the outside of the tanks a longer lasting finish. They can be had usually in black or white as standard colors.

One thing to keep in mind,  while the powder coat will protect the outside of the tank, the interior of a tank made from steel is bare, and needs to be at a constant higher level of fuel, you want to make sure that you have enough in there to cover the walls of the inside of your tank as much as you can, because doing that lubricates the steel and keeps it from rusting into tiny little flakes.

Steel is also cheaper than aluminium, and while you might think that is a great feature, you do want to keep in mind that these work best if you’re the kind of person that would keep their auxiliary tank filled up for the majority of the time. This can’t be any more important, you want to make sure that the inside of your steel tank is always coated with fuel to keep it from rusting.

This is a problem if the tank sits around idle for long periods of time with no movement, but if you drive your truck around alot, it becomes less of a concern, because driving will slosh the fuel around the tank and coat the insides.

So think about how you fit into these usage categories while you look at the options below, it’s an important choice to consider when looking at any kind of fuel tank.

Also to consider: some of the tanks out there will work just fine for on private property or farm use, but there are DOT regulations to consider for fuel tanks that are used for commercial operations.

For more information on DOT rules about fuel tanks: Read the FMCSA regulations

Baffling is another factor that is important to look for in any fuel tank, these internal structures keep the fuel from sloshing around during transportation and are a need for DOT certification.

Conclusion

We sincerely hope this roundup has helped you to narrow down your options for adding a tank to your truck. As always, if there are any questions or comments that you have, feel free to leave them in the comments below. Thanks for reading!

Is your 6.0 Powerstroke having trouble starting? Have you been getting terrible fuel economy?

Do you have a check engine light with any of the following OBD codes?

(Injector circuit low voltage)

If so, you might be experiencing FICM failure. This is a common issue for these trucks, and I think most 6.0’s will have problems with the FICM at some point in their lifetime.

What the heck is this FICM thing you might ask?

• 

  Ford 6.0 Powerstroke FICM 4C3Z-12B599-ABRM

  Check Price
  Amazon

  as of May 7, 2025 2:23 pm

  Features

  • $250 refund with return of your original module
  • Upgraded control board over Ford & International OEM replacements - 5 YEAR WARRANTY!
  • We will contact you for your VIN to ensure proper programming
  • Remanufactured in the USA

The Fuel Injection Control Module – is an electronic module in charge of deciding the amount of fuel to deliver to each of the cylinders. It does this by relaying voltage to close and open each cylinder’s fuel injector, to deliver the pressurized fuel with the correct timing.

As your truck racks up mileage, the FICM starts having trouble in doing its job correctly. A big issue with these is with the solder on the output circuit board. Over time, the solder fails on the connections for the components of the board, and as a result the output voltages drop below the required parameters.

This causes the injectors to not open and close when they should, leaving you with a truck that is impossible or very difficult to start, even more so a problem in cold weather. Also, depending on how shot your module is, you may have already noticed a real drop in your fuel economy,

Damage to the FICM is mostly caused when your batteries or alternator are too weak to do their jobs adequately. These 6.0’s come with only an 110 amp alternator, the same kind that Ford uses on some of their passenger cars, not very robust at all for the powerstroke needs.

This is a bad thing because when cranking your powerstroke, the glow plugs and just the required starting electronics can draw about 230 amps. You can easily see the issue of having a weak electrical system there. A good practice is to periodically check your charging system, especially the batteries.

If your truck isn’t your daily driver, you can extend the life of those expensive batteries by using a desulphating smart battery charger. If it is already too late for your old batteries, it might be time to upgrade to AGM batteries.

An upgraded alternator can also make a big difference in the life on the onboard electronics. A higher amperage alternator for the 6.0 powerstroke is a very good upgrade for your truck’s electrical system.

Testing for a failed FICM

In order to verify if you are in need of a FICM repair or replacement, you will want to check the output voltage on the module itself.

You will need a multimeter and an assistant to perform this test:

1. Remove the coolant reservoir with a 10mm ratchet and place aside or remove
2. Locate the FICM and the pinout cover
3. Use a T20 Torx bit to remove the two cover fasteners
4. Set your multimeter to DC volts and attach the negative lead to the battery negative terminal.
5. Touch the positive lead to the pin on the FICM that is closest to the driver’s side. Don’t led your lead touch the case!
6. Have your assistant turn the key on, but not to start
7. Read the voltage, it should be right at 48v and no higher than 49v or lower than 47v.

How to fix your FICM

There are a couple of different ways to go about fixing your defective fuel injection control module, the best option is simply repairing the part that has failed in most people’s broken FICM. By far, the most module issues that people experience come from a failed power supply circuit board.

The good news is that the FICM power supply board is a cheap and easy fix.

This fix works for the 6.0 control module found in late 04-07 Super Duty pickups, and the Econoline vans, which also used the same module up until the 2010 model year I believe.

The actual repair is pretty simple, once you’ve gotten your FICM out of the truck, you just have to open the case and remove the Torx (T10 and T20 bits are required) screws to get at the circuit board.

A new power supply board can easily be found on Amazon:

• 

  Dorman 904-229 Fuel Injection Control Module

  Check Price
  Amazon

  as of May 7, 2025 2:23 pm

  Features

  • Direct replacement - this FICM inverter board replaces the original board on certain Ford and Navistar vehicles to restore operation when the original unit fails from excessive heat and vibration
  • Cost-saving solution - when FICMs fail, it's often only the power board, not the controller board and housing that make up the entire module; save money by just replacing broken board
  • No programming required - if you replace the entire module, you need to reinitialize it using professional tools, but not if you replace only the inverter board with this repair kit
  • Improved design - since the factory board fails from excessive heat and vibration, this unit features additional securing compound to help prevent it from failing the same way again in the future
  • Ensure fit - to make sure this part fits your exact vehicle, input your make, model and trim level into the garage tool

The best part is that by just replacing this board, the repair is a fraction of the cost of replacing the entire module as a whole part.

The below video is the best walk through that I have seen for this repair, as you can see it really isn’t that terrible of a job.