Starting in 2013 and continuing still to this day, the Dodge Ram 1500, 2500 and 3500 turbo diesel trucks all have a pretty significant design flaw.
Yep, that’s a fuel filler that comes from the factory with no cap. A cap-less fuel filler design, really?
What were you thinking Dodge!?
How exactly is the mediocre seal on the fuel door supposed to protect against water and dirt getting into the fuel filler neck?
Of course, Dodge will not admit to this being anything other than the design as intended, but they did release a part number for the people that inquired about missing “gas” caps; the Mopar part# 52029561AA, which is a quite thin and cheaply made green plastic wedge style cap. These do not seem to be durable at all, and still are questionable in their ability to keep out contaminants.
Fortunately, there are a couple options aside from what Dodge has (or hasn’t) provided:
Aluminum Fuel Cap
Thankfully the aftermarket has seen this issue and noticed that people in fact actually want to seal their fuel filler necks from getting crap down into the tank.
The main problem that you’ll have when trying to add a normal fuel cap to one of these dodge trucks – there just isn’t enough room for a regular old gas cap to sit in there and still have the fuel door close.
This is why these billet aluminum caps have such a low profile, so that they can actually fit perfectly in the filler, seal it with an o-ring and still have space for the door to close. Plus, they look quite good!
2013-2017 Dodge Ram Diesel Fuel Cap Billet Aluminum Magnetic NEW EASIER GRIP DESIGN
- This is what Dodge forgot to include in your new truck! Why take the risk going without this Dodge Ram accessory? This Magnetic Dodge Ram Fuel Cap KEEPS DIRT & WATER OUT OF YOUR FUEL TANK on all Capless Dodge Ram Diesel Trucks (2013-2017)
- NEW EASIER TO GRIP DESIGN! (Based on our great customer feedback!)
- PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE AT ITS BEST! Machined from AIRCRAFT GRADE Aluminum and Anodized Green with laser logo to help ensure no fueling mix-ups
- A Strong, RARE EARTH MAGNET holds the cap to any metal surface on the truck during fill-ups.
- COMPATIBLE with Dodge Ram EVAP EMISSION SYSTEMS. Diesel Compatible O-ring ensures a snug fit inside the fuel fill hole.
For all Dodge Ram Diesels 2013-2017 with "capless" fuel fill. This trick looking billet aluminum fuel cap accessory will enhance the look and feel of your new truck. More importantly this cap will give you peace of mind that your fuel tank is staying clean by keeping dirt and debris out. The rubber o-ring seals off the fuel filler area and provides a snug fit. The strong magnet on the backside allows you to easily set it aside during fill ups, just stick it to any metal part of the truck. Eliminate any concern about dirt getting into your fuel tank, this is a fast, simple, effective design and looks great too!
Fuel And DEF Cap Combo
If you prefer a more uniform look, there is a combo set available that combines the DEF and fuel cap replacements together in one kit. Guaranteed to make you smile every time you refill!
2013-2017 Dodge Ram Diesel Magnetic Billet Aluminum Fuel Cap and DEF Cap Combo
- Fits all 2013-2017 Dodge Ram Diesel and Eco-diesel vehicles
- Rare earth magnet installed in bottom of gas cap. When refueling just place the cap against the steel fuel door, keeps you from setting it down and forgetting about it.
- DEF cap is compatible with the stock tether. Remove the old cap and snap the tether around the new cap for easy retention.
- Both caps machined from 6061 billet aluminum and anodized for maximum protection and a show quality finish.
- Caps include o-rings to protect against outside contaminants, a major improvement over the cheap stock plastic diesel cap that lets dirt and dust in
Do you own a 2013-2017 Dodge Ram Diesel? Tired of the lack of a quality gas cap on your expensive truck? What about the cheap looking plastic DEF cap? Well here is the gas and DEF cap combo that you've been looking for. As good looking as they are functional, this combo will keep dirt and debris out of the fuel system while making the other owners jealous. These are the caps that should have been included stock.
OEM Style Plastic Cap
Aside from the thin green plastic cap, Dodge actually has another style of cap that is more robust and seems like it would do the job of protecting the open fuel filler system.
The part number for this cap: Mopar/Chrysler 82214609.
It does also come with a tether to keep the cap attached and from being lost, a nice feature for those of us that sometimes misplace our fuel caps when refilling our trucks in the morning before coffee.
Non-Locking Gas Cap for 3.0L and 6.7L Diesel Engines with capless systemAvailable for 2014-2017 Dodge Ram 1500Available for 2014-2017 Dodge Ram 2500Available for 2014-2017 Dodge Ram 3500
Hopefully this guide has helped you to find the best options for replacing your truck’s missing fuel cap. If you have any more questions or input about this issue, feel free to drop us a line below in the comments. Thanks for reading!
Compression tests have always been a go-to for uncovering any issues that an engine might have, and diesel engines are no exception to this rule.
At first glance, it seems like the testing procedure is very similar between gasoline engines and diesels, however testing compression on a diesel does have different requirements, procedures and tooling (namely adapters and high pressure gauges).
The biggest difference you’ll run into when testing a diesel is the pressures that these engines produce. They’re a great deal higher than a regular gasoline combustion engine, which means your test gauge will have to be able to take a greater PSI reading. I recommend going with at least a 1,000 PSI gauge in order to accurately read your cylinder pressures, many regular gauges only go up to 300 PSI which just won’t cut it.
Best Test Gauge for Diesels
This is the best option that I’ve found for a reasonably priced, high quality test gauge that reads up to 1,000 PSI (or 70 bar) which is what you’ll need for a diesel. Keep in mind that this is for the gauge only, you’ll also need to grab the correct adapter kit for your truck, if you keep scrolling I have the most popular adapters listed below.
- Works on any diesel engine
- Test compression up to 1000 psi and 7000 kPa
- Include a check valve push button compression release and a quick disconnect fitting on the hose end
- Straight and 45 degree hose connectors are included
- Determination of damage by impact tools is subject to SPX evaluation and discretion
OTC Universal Diesel Engine Compression Gauge Works on any diesel engine to test compression up to 1000 psi and 7000 kPa. Its features include a check valve, push button compression release, and a quick disconnect fitting on the hose end. Straight and 45 degrees hose connectors are included.
Diesel Compression Test Kit
If you’re a professional mechanic or just someone that works on more than one type of truck, you’ll probably want to get a test kit that already includes the adapters for all the most popular diesels, instead of buying them piece by piece.
- Swivel-end quick-coupler allows quick and easy connection of adapters
- 0-1000 PSI/0-70 bar gauge with release valve and 14.5" long hose
- Weight: 11.35 lbs.
- Carbon steel construction. Hardened tips. High-pressure hose
- Chrome-plated gauge
This diesel compression tester set includes the tester and all necessary adapters to measure cylinder pressure on most diesel-equipped cars, trucks and tractors. Includes adapters for these engines: Ford/Navistar 6.9/7.3 liter engine Audi, Volvo, VW, Cummins 5.9 liter, M-B cars & trucks with 24 MM ports V-185, 210, 225, 555, VT-255, 555 Bacharach adapter M-B 18 MM (prior to 1978) M-B 12 MM (1978 and up) Majority of H-D tractor diesel engines including Allis Chalmers, Case, Deere, Ford, I. H., Mack, Onan, Waukesha Cummins V-6, V-8, V-12 BMW 2.4 liter, Lincoln (Mark-VII) 1984 & 1985, Peugeot 12 MM/18MM Chevy Luv 1.8/2.2 liter, Isuzu 1.8/2.2 liter, Toyota 1.8 liter G. M. 4.3/5.7/6.2/6.5 liter (turbo) Detroit Diesel 53, 71, 92, 110, 149, V53, V71 Cat D-336, 1674, 1676, 3406, 3408, 3412 (capsule-type nozzles) Case, Cat, Deere, Waukesha
7.3L Powerstroke Adapter Kit
On the 7.3 compression testing is best done by removing the glow plugs and inserting the special adapter shown here:
- DIESEL TESTER ADAPTER FOR 7.3L POWER STROKE FORD & NAVISTAR
Diesel Test Adapter for 7.3L Ford Power Stroke
6.0L and 6.4L Powerstroke Adapter Kit
The 6.0 is just like the 7.3 as far as removing the glow plugs to test. You’ll need this adapter for the 6.0:
- Compression Tester Adapter
- Use with OTC number 5021 diesel engine compression gauge works on 2003-2006 Ford vans and trucks with 60L diesel engines
- Works on 2003-2006 Ford vans and trucks with 6.0L diesel engines
OTC Compression Tester Adapter Use with OTC number 5021 diesel engine compression gauge. It works on 2003-2006 Ford vans and trucks with 6.0L diesel engines.
5.9 Cummins Adapter Kit
All the years of the 5.9 require the injectors to be pulled in order to perform a compression test. This adapter replaces the removed injector with the 1/8 NPT fitting that works with most gauges.
- For use with Lang TU-15 Diesel Compression Tester
- Applications: Cummins (1998-2002) 5.9L ISB and Dodge/Cummins (1998-2009) 5.9L ISB
The TU-15-26 Die Compression Test Adapter is for use with the STAR Diesel Compression Tester TU-15 to test cylinder pressure on diesel cars and trucks. Holds in place with its own hold-down bracket For Cummins ISB engines used in Dodge pick-ups, school buses and medium-duty trucks Die Compression Test Adapter - TU-15-26 < / p>
2005+ 6.6L Duramax Adapter
This adapter threads into the glow plug hole of your Duramax and features a quick release connector to plug into a gauge.
- M10-1.25 thread adapter with quick disconnect screws into the head of the engine in the glow plug hole.
Depending on which engine you have the test procedure will vary in details, but the overall procedure is similar for most engines:
- Disable fuel injection
- Remove all glow plugs to reduce compression resistance
- Use the correct adapter to thread into the glow plug hole
- Attach the test gauge to the adapter
- Verify that ignition is disabled to prevent engine from starting
- Using a test jumper or remote switch, activate the starter directly
- Crank the engine for 4-5 revolutions
- Read and record the final PSI on the gauge
- Repeat for all cylinders and compare pressures
Compression PSI Specifications/Ranges
I’ve put together the PSI ranges that you should be looking for when doing your compression test. Keep in mind that a lot of these are the specifications for these engines when new or rebuilt. Engines with a lot of miles will naturally have lower PSI because of all the wear and tear.
Generally speaking, you’ll always want to look for the relative compression readings for all of the cylinders comparatively. A huge red flag is more than 75% difference between the individual cylinders.
- 7.3 365-475 psi is the acceptable range for the 7.3L Powerstroke.
- 6.0 375-425 psi is the acceptable range for the 6.0L Powerstroke.
- 6.4 340-375 psi is the acceptable range for the 6.4L Powerstroke.
- 5.9 6BT The minimum psi spec for the 6BT is 350 psi.
- LB7 Minimum 350 psi.
- LLY Minimum 350 psi.
- LBZ Minimum 350 psi.
- LMM Minimum 350 psi.
- LML Minimum 350 psi.
Hopefully this guide has been helpful in answering any questions that you might have had about compression testing your diesel. If you have any questions or concerns, please feel free to post them in the comments section below. Thanks for reading!
In this guide, I wanted to cover an issue that many 6.0 and 7.3 powerstroke owners have run into, Injector stiction. Stiction is unfortunately a very common problem with the fuel delivery system that these powerstrokes use, and can lead to serious issues with hard starts, rough idling, misfires and terrible overall driveability.
What is stiction?
The 6.0 and 7.3 Powerstrokes use hydraulically actuated electronically controlled unit injector (or HEUI) injectors. Contrary to most modern common rail systems, the HEUI is now an outdated system that was introduced by Caterpillar way back in the 90’s. Instead of using a high pressure injection pump to pressurize the fuel in the injector body (like you’ll find in newer diesels) the HEUI system uses oil that has been pressurized very highly, sent directly into the injectors, to create the required fuel pressure.
Basically, the oil pump pressurizes some of the engine oil, sends it to the HEUI system, which opens or closes a spool valve inside the injector, allowing the oil to push on the intensifier piston. This piston then converts the oil pressure into fuel pressure, and from there the fuel is injected into the cylinder at up to 4000psi.
The problem happens when the spool valve either has oil residue on it and becomes stuck, or when the engine oil becomes foamy to the point where the foam is creating a false injector pressure.
The bad part about this system is that it is affected by low quality fuel and oil, which is all too common and hard to avoid nowadays. Oil residue and foamy oil in the spool valve is the main issue with the HEUI system, and the best way to keep your injectors flowing well is to use an additive to clean them preventatively.
Frequent oil changes are very important for your Powerstroke, remember that the injectors need oil pressure in order to operate and changing and checking your oil is the best way to ensure that the injector system stays operational and in good working condition. The pressure that the HEUI system operates on the oil side can be greater than 3000 psi, which is just terrible for the longevity of your oil, it breaks down the molecules much faster and creates foam.
Another good reason to stay on top of your oil changes.
The best oil additive to cure your diesel’s stiction
There are a few additives out there that claim to fix stiction issues on the powerstroke injectors. Below I’ll cover a few of the most popular ones, and how well they work.
- Two - 4oz Engine Oil Treatment
- Increased Efficiency, Horsepower & Torque
- Greatly Improved Cold Start Operation, Dramatic Reductions in Component Wear
- Helps release "Sticktion" conditions
- Call 800-893-9096 for free advice
Because of the reviews I’ve read about success with this stuff bringing low performing injectors back to life, if a contribution code were to pop up on my truck I would start my troubleshooting with some fresh oil and a couple bottles of this stuff.
- 16oz AR9100 Friction Modifier- Treats one PowerStroke
- Fixes 6.0 and 7.3L PowerStroke Cold Start Injector Problems.
- For gasoline and diesel engines, gearboxes, hydraulics, differentials and power steering systems.
- Reduces wear and extends component life
- Reduces engine noise, vibration, and friction heat.
I don’t currently have any symptoms of stiction, like any hard start or rough idle issues with my truck (knock on wood) but I have seemed to notice a bit smoother acceleration since I’ve started incorporating it into my maintenance routine.
- Improved power; improved compression
- Removed engine deposits; seals rings better
- Neutralized harmful engine acids; reduced frictional drag
- Prevent excessive wear; reduced lifter and valve noise
- Restores oil pressure
You really can’t go wrong with trying any of these friction modifiers really, they are all designed to do the same thing basically. If I had an OBD code staring me in the face, I’d start with the Rev-x, as that seems to have the most success with tough cases. For preventative maintenance though, I’d pick one of the other two, just because of cost.
Frequent oil changes
Changing the oil often on a diesel that uses high pressure oil in the fuel injection system is much more important than on a regular gasoline vehicle, and here’s why:
With the very intense pressures of the oil injector system, your oil is subjected to much more wear and tear than in a regular engine because of shear.
Shear is a way to measure the effects that mechanical stress has on your oil. Being under huge loads like in a diesel injector system reduces the effective viscosity of the oil by a large factor.
This reduction of viscosity means that the oil is much more quickly thinned out in a diesel than a gasoline vehicle, and because of this it ends up being much less effective at lubricating.
In fact, the industry standard test for oil shear by ASTM International (D5275) actually involves running through a high pressure diesel injection system like in a powerstroke, and then comparing the viscosity to fresh oil.
Best oil for preventing stiction
So now that you know how important frequent oil changes are, let’s go over how to choose the best oil to run in your truck to prevent all of the nasty side effects of stiction.
The most important thing to consider when shopping for diesel oil is the additives that they use to protect against shear.
Below is a comparison of what I believe to be the best choice for oil in diesel engines that use a high pressure oil fuel delivery system.
Rotella T6 vs Delo 400LE
Let me start by saying that these two oils are the only kinds that I would ever consider running in my truck. It’s so much more important for these high pressure injector systems to have the right additives in the oil to prolong the inevitable thinning, and regular old wal-mart or whatever oil just won’t cut it.
Rotella T6 is the primary choice here, the additive profile of this oil is top notch, which ensures that it will be a very good choice for diesels that use a HEUI system.
- Shell Rotella T Triple Protection oils provide triple action to help control wear, deposits and emissions to continuously adapt to the needs of the engine for protection in on and off highway applications
- Up to 38 percent lower wear in over 40 million miles of on and off road testing in late-model engines
- Meets or exceeds API CJ-4 requirements, and is designed to provide extra performance; Shell Rotella T Triple Protection performs well in both older and new engines
- 30 percent increase in active ashless chemistry to protect against deposits and sludge
- Using modern multi-component chemistry, Shell Rotella T Triple Protection gives all-around protection for turbo- and non-turbocharged engines alike
That being said, Delo 400LE is also a great choice that is much more cost effective. The only caveat to the Delo oil is that it designed for the newer trucks because it was formulated to meet emissions specs for ’07 and up.
- Premium quality, heavy duty motor oil manufactured in the USA
- Formulated to meet the requirements of post-2007 low emission engines
- Provides outstanding performance with ultra-low sulfur diesel and also with normal and low sulfur diesel fuels
- May be used in older, conventional engines and gasoline engines
- Formulated with ISOSYN technology
Cleaning the spool valve in the injectors
Sometimes, using an additive or changing the oil won’t be enough to clean off the oil residue that is clinging to the spool valves inside your injectors. In this scenario, you’re going to need to either replace the injectors, or pull them and clean the spool valves by hand.
This process is a bit involved, but doable. The best instructions that I’ve seen for spool valve cleaning are in this video below:
Replacing worn injectors
So, what if you’ve already thrown the book at your Powerstroke by changing the oil, trying one of the additives, and manually cleaning the spool valves in the injectors – but nothing has helped?
More than likely you’re going to have to go with remanufactured injectors like the one below, in order to fix the problem if none of the above has resolved it for you.
OE Ford 4C3Z9E527AA Fuel Injector For 6.0L Ford Diesel (Re-Manufactured)($100.00 Core Deposit Included)(Replaces 1844751C2, 1846692C92, 1845150C92)
- Meets Or Exceeds OEM Specs
- Factory OEM Fit Form And Function
Stiction rears its ugly head in the form of misfires on cold starts, rough and uneven idle, and hesitation when accelerating. These symptoms can continue even when the engine has warmed up fully.
Stiction and OBD DTC’s
If your injectors are not operating as they should due to stiction, this can lead to the engine computer throwing out some telltale OBD DTC’s:*
*Acronym Translation: OBD = On Board Diagnostics and DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Codes.
P0263 Valve train or injector cylinder #1 contribution/balance
P0266 Valve train or injector cylinder #2 contribution/balance
P0269 Valve train or injector cylinder #3 contribution/balance
P0272 Valve train or injector cylinder #4 contribution/balance
P0275 Valve train or injector cylinder #5 contribution/balance
P0278 Valve train or Injector cylinder #6 contribution/balance
P0281 Valve train or injector cylinder #7 contribution/balance
P0284 Valve train or injector cylinder #8 contribution/balance
FICM Causing Stiction Symptoms
The spool valves in the injectors operate when they receive a signal from the FICM (fuel injection control module.) It stands to reason, if your FICM is not operating correctly then you will get symptoms of stiction, the spool valves will act similarly to being clogged up if they aren’t receiving the correct signal from the FICM.
Aside from adding a stiction prevention additive, the other first step in troubleshooting a rough running powerstroke, is to test the FICM for the correct voltages. Check out the FICM repair guide for instructions on how to perform that test.
Welcome to our fuel tank roundup!
This guide is here to help you figure out what kind of tank your truck needs, whether you need an auxiliary tank for extending your range, a transfer tank for filling your equipment in the field or just a larger capacity factory replacement fuel tank.
First of all, let’s go over what each type of fuel tank does:
Transfer tanks are a remote fueling solution, they are a must-have for your truck if you are running any kind of equipment out in the field, as they keep you from the major inconvenience of having to trailer your equipment to the closest fuel station to fill up.
Auxiliary tanks are a way of extending the range of your truck, by adding another tank that feeds into your truck’s factory tank, you can massively increase fuel capacity.
Higher-capacity tanks are a replacement for your trucks factory tank, these aftermarket tanks take advantage of unused space under the bed of your truck to raise capacity and extend your driving range.
There are a few different styles to choose from when shopping for a transfer tank, some are specifically designed for higher capacity, some for the least size impact (slim rectangle tanks), and others have built-in features like lockable bed toolboxes.
We will go through the different styles and compare the best options from each category, so that you can choose the one that fits your use best.
L-Shaped Transfer Tanks
- All aluminum tank construction
95 gal L-refueling tank Aluminum Tank Industries manufactures the highest quality aluminum refueling transfer tanks in the industry. ATI tanks can be used for diesel or gasoline. ATI has been granted a special permit #SP14227 that allows for refueling without removal of the transfer tank from your truck. 99% of all other transfer tanks cannot be pumped from, legally, while it is in the bed of your truck and other tanks cannot be used for gasoline. These tanks can be used for commercial and state applications. Choose Aluminum Tank Industries fuel and transfer tanks, not only for a top quality fuel tank that will hold up to the toughest conditions, but for your "peace of mind." All aluminum tank construction · Two reinforced 2" npt bungs that allow for reversing the pump and fill · Commercial prevent lockable filler cap · Full baffles to reduce movement of contents · Designed and tested for diesel and gasoline · Designs to fit all trucks · Warranty
Vicrez Aluminum Tank L-Shape 95 Gallons Refueling Fuel Transfer Tank VZT100003
- Vehicle Part: Refueling Fuel Transfer Tank
- Material: Aluminum
- Capacity:95 Gallons
- Dimensions: 26" x 33" x 48.5" x 9" x 22" x 17" x 11"
- Made in USA
Vicrez Aluminum Tanks L-Shape 95 Gallons Refueling Fuel Transfer Tank VZT100003 Vehicle Part: Refueling Fuel Transfer Tank Material: Aluminum Capacity: 95 Gallons Dimensions: 26" x 33" x 48.5" x 9" x 22" x 17" x 11" Features: Special Permit issued by the US Department of Transportation Legal for Gas , Diesel, Methanol, Kerosene, Aviation fuel and other liquids Commercial grade lockable vent/prevent filler cap Fully baffled to reduce movement of contents Two-2” npt reinforced bungs for superior strength 3/8” npt drain Hold down brackets Pressure and leak detection test Clean and free of debris inside and outside of the tank 1 year limited warranty The L-shape Refueling Tanks are designed to be used with a crossover style toolbox or chest box. The bottom of the L-shape fits under most standard toolboxes. The fuel tank can also be installed in reverse so the fuel tank can be removed without removal of your toolbox. The Two- 2" bungs allow for reversing the fuel fill cap and fuel transfer pump to the side you prefer best. Vehicle Fitment Notes: Universal Fit - This part is universal
Vicrez Aluminum Tank L-Shape 95 Gallons Split Refueling Fuel Transfer Tank VZT100015
- Vehicle Part: Refueling Fuel Transfer Tank
- Material: Aluminum
- Capacity: 95 Gallons
- Dimensions: 26" x 33" x 48.5" x 9" x 22" x 17" x 11"
- Made in USA
Vicrez Aluminum Tanks L-Shape 95 Gallons Split Refueling Fuel Transfer Tank VZT100015 Vehicle Part: Refueling Fuel Transfer Tank Material: Aluminum Capacity: 95 Gallons Dimensions: 26" x 33" x 48.5" x 9" x 22" x 17" x 11" Features: Special Permit issued by the US Department of Transportation Legal for Gas , Diesel, Methanol, Kerosene, Aviation fuel and other liquids Commercial grade lockable vent/prevent filler cap Fully baffled to reduce movement of contents Two-2” npt reinforced bungs for superior strength 3/8” npt drain Hold down brackets Pressure and leak detection test Clean and free of debris inside and outside of the tank 1 year limited warranty Our split tanks are designed for transporting and refueling two separated liquids legally on your flat bed or in the bed of your pickup truck. L-shape and Rectangle split fuel tanks are available. The Two- 2" bungs allow for reversing the fuel fill cap and fuel transfer pump to the side you prefer best. Vehicle Fitment Notes: Universal Fit - This part is universal
The L-shape of these tanks allows for higher capacity than the slim rectangle tanks, while still allowing you to have a good amount of bed space left for other things like your bed tool box.
The picture above is a good example of how you can use the transfer tank in conjunction with a truck bed toolbox, if you look closely you can see the L-shaped tank is tucked up under the toolbox in this truck bed. This a great option if you already own a truck bed toolbox, simply slide it in under your bed box and keep on truckin!
Fuel Tank Toolbox Combo
RDS Aluminum Auxiliary Fuel Tank/Toolbox Combo with Fuel Filler Shroud - 60-Gal. Capacity, Black Diamond Plate, Model# 72743PC
- Low profile design works well with fifth-wheels
- Built-in baffles reduce fuel sloshing during transport
- Rust-free aluminum construction protects fuel from contamination
- Sight gauge allows you to quickly determine fu
This sturdy 60-Gal. RDS Aluminum Auxiliary Fuel Tank/Toolbox Combo provides extra fuel storage that allows for increased driving range. The auxiliary tank can be used as additional capacity for a factory tank with the use of an RDS diesel install kit (sold separately). The 55in.L x 20in.W x 19in.H tank includes a gas cap, suction tube, drain fittings, manual sight gauge, fuel filler shroud, and baffles to reduce sloshing. The toolbox has a linked stainless steel lock that also secures fuel fill to prevent tampering. Two cylinders hold the crowned lid open. Aluminum diamond plate material in a textured black powder-coat diamond plate finish. Meets DOT standards. Not intended for use with gasoline. Tank Size (gal.): 60, Tank Dimensions L x W x H (in.): 55 + 2-in. (tabs) x 20 + 1-in. (tabs) x 12 3/4, Material Type: Aluminum, Tank Type: Auxiliary, Box Dimensions L x W x H (in.): 48 x 20 x 6 1/4, DOT Approved: Yes, Shape: Rectangle, Overall Dimensions L x W x H (in.): 55 + 2-in. (tabs) x 20 + 1-in. (tabs) x 19, Fits Models: Most truck beds (measure to confirm), Finish Type: Black powder-coat diamond plate, Lock Type: Paddle handle, Compatible With: Diesel fuel, oil, bio fuel, combustible fuel, Lock Included: Yes
- Aluminum Tank and Toolbox - NO RUSTING
- Heavy-duty 0.125 ga. aluminum used for tank
- Toolbox built using 0.058 ga. aluminum
- Toolboxes come with stainless steel locks that also secure fuel fill to prevent tampering, plus two cylinders to hold open crowned lid
- Fully welded seams
Auxiliary fuel tank with built-in toolbox and aluminum diamond treadplate. It is the user's responsibility to comply with local, state and federal requirements pertaining to safe transportation, loading and discharging of tank contents. U.S.A. Tank Type: Auxiliary, Tank Size (gal.): 40, Overall Dimensions L x W x H (in.): 55 x 20 x 19, Box Dimensions L x W x H (in.): 48 x 20 x 10, Tank Dimensions L x W x H (in.): 55 x 20 x 9, Fits Models: Fits 6 and 8 foot truck beds, Material Type: Aluminum, Finish Type: Diamond plate finish, Lock Included: Yes, Lock Type: Stainless steel key locks, Shape: Rectangle, DOT Approved: Yes, Includes: Suction tube, manual sight gauge, baffles, return and drain fittings
- FT-50 FUEL AND TOOL COMBO 54 GALLON US(ONLY50 GAL IN CA) TANK/TOOLBOX
FT-50 FUEL AND TOOL COMBO 54 GALLON US(ONLY50 GAL IN CA) TANK/TOOLBOX
If you don’t already have a bed toolbox and you’re looking for something that can store your tools and equipment, a fuel tank and tool box combo is probably the best fit for your needs. These boxes combine the versatility of having the fuel on-hand for your equipment, and also the tools that you need to get the job done out in the field.
Best transfer tank pump
Once you have your tank, you’ll need a way to get the fuel out of it and into your equipment or vehicles. The best way to do that is with a 12v electric fuel transfer pump.
- Smooth operating 1/4 HP 12V pump with dependable 30-minute duty cycle
- 8 GPM flow rate for fast delivery of fuel
- 3/4in. inlet and outlet with swivel connector at nozzle inlet to enhance performance and minimize hose binding
- Comes with 13-ft. x 3/4in. hose, 40in. steel telescoping pipe, aluminum nozzle and 2in. tank adapter, allowing it to be attached to a drum up to 55 gallons
- Includes 6 1/2ft. power cord for easy connection to power source
The Roughneck Fuel Transfer Pump is a lightweight, compact self-priming pump with bypass valve that's designed for barrel or tank mounting, providing efficient transfer of low viscosity petroleum fuels such as diesel, kerosene and other light oils. Can be mounted outside in a barrel or on a transfer tank, making it ideal for farm or work applications. 7in.L x 7in.W x 9.8in.H. Seal Type: IP55, Outlet Port (in.): 3/4, Duty Cycle: 30 min., Self-Priming: Yes, Discharge (ft.): 30, Speed (RPM): 3,000, Dimensions L x W x H (in.): 25 5/8 x 13 3/4 x 15 3/4, Amps: 18, Nozzle Type: Manual, Inlet Port (in.): 3/4, Hose (in. x ft.): 3/4 x 13, Max. Total Head (ft.): 35, Bypass Valve: Yes, Flow (GPM): 8, Watts: 120, Max. Suction Lift (ft.): 5, HP: 1/4
Fill-Rite FR4210G Fuel Transfer Pump, Telescoping Suction Pipe, 12' Delivery Hose, Manual Release Nozzle - 12 Volt, 20 GPM
- 1/4 hp, 12VDC, 13 amp DC motor
- 20 gpm flow capacity at 2,600 rpm with 37' maximum lift
- Cast iron housing with buna-n mechanical seal and O-ring for durability
- Suitable for transfer of gasoline, diesel, B20, E-15, kerosene, and mineral spirits
- UL and CUL listed and displays the CE marking
12V, DC High Flow Fill Rite Pump, 20 GPM, Heavy Duty Cast Iron, Contractor & Industry Grade, Has An Explosion Proof Motor With Permanent Magnet & Cast Bronze Rotor With Bronze Rotary Vanes, Steel Suction Pipe Telescopes From 22" To 40", Built In Check Valve & Strainer, 2" Threaded Base For Tank Mounting, Padlockable, Hose With Static Ground Wire & Thermal Overload Protection, Manual Nozzle Included, UL Listed, Suitable For Diesel/Gasoline/Kerosene/E15/BD Up To BD20, 2 Year Warranty. This product adds a great value. product is highly durable and very easy to use. This product is manufactured in China.
XtremepowerUS 12 Volt DC 20GPM Gasoline Fuel Transfer Pump Self-Priming W/ Nozzle
- Flow (GPM) - 20 / RPM Speed - 2600
- Max. Total Head (ft): 36.96
- Max. Suction Lift (ft): 8
- Inlet Port (inch) - 1.25, Outlet Port (inch) - 1.25
- Color may vary
The transfer pump is designed for barrel or tank mounting. Able to provides safer, more efficient transfer of Diesel, Gasoline, Kerosene, Mineral Spirits, Heptane & Hexane. Color may differ.
Gravity Feed Auxiliary Tank Install
Gravity feeding is the simplest way to have your truck’s tank refilled from your in-bed auxiliary/transfer tank.
Basically all you need to do in order for this to work is to tie a small refill hose from the auxiliary tank right into your main truck tank’s fuel filler hose.
The easiest way to get this done is with an install kit. The kit comes with the fuel filler hose T fitting and a length of hose to connect to your aux tank. It also has a valve to close off the feed when not needed.
Depending on where you tie into the filler hose, you can usually leave the valve on constantly and fill your truck from your transfer tank, which will in turn automatically feed into the main fuel tank.
Best gravity feed install kit:
RDS Diesel Install Kit for Auxiliary Diesel Fuel Tank - Fits 1999-Current Ford, 2011-Current Chevrolet and GMC, and Dodge 1999-2012, Model# 011025
- Designed for use with all Ford models 1999-2014, all Chevy and GMC models 2011-2014, and Dodge models 1999-2012
This RDS kit is designed to connect your auxiliary diesel fuel tank to your truck's fuel fill hose to provide consistent gravity feed of fuel. Automatically controls the fuel level going into your OEM tank so that it does not overfill. Easy, simple installation. Kit includes hose, clamps and fittings. Intended for diesel fuel only. U.S.A. Fuel Type: Diesel, Compatible With: 1999-Current Ford, 2011-Current Chevrolet and GMC, Dodge 1999-2012, Product Type: Installation kit
Choosing Tank Materials
Aluminum Vs. Steel Comparison
Figuring out which material is best for your new tank goes beyond how it looks and what is costs. The biggest deciding factor will be how you intend to use the thing. Will you be the operator that is out in the field with his excavation equipment running all day? Or do you only intend to use it for smaller jobs, like refilling a backup generator that only runs during grid downtime? These differences in usage can make or break choosing aluminum over steel, or vice versa.
Option 1 – Aluminum :
Aluminum transfer tanks use a metal that doesn’t rust. Ever. This means that the outside of your tank will always look pristine sitting in the bed of your truck. Rust is bad though, really bad, and for more reasons beyond just how the outside of the tank looks. One of the things that rusted steel does is it flakes apart into tiny little pieces. As you can imagine, tiny little flakes of rust in fuel are terrible for your equipment’s fuel system. No one wants to spend their evenings swapping out fuel filters.
There are a couple different options for exterior tank styles, if you care about that sort of thing. You can usually find aluminum tanks in two main styles, made from stamped sheet. Usually you can order them in the classic polished silver diamond plate pattern, or with a durable black powdercoat finish.
Best part is, by choosing aluminum you never have to worry again about rust oxidation. These tanks are great for heavy duty use on a daily basis, as part of any job site operation. And as a bonus, they also keep fuels from becoming unusable during those long gaps in fill-up times.
Option 2 – Steel:
Steel transfer tanks have always looked a bit more rugged to me. They’re built out of thicker metal than aluminum tanks, often resulting in tank walls that use up to 14-gauge steel.
Steel tanks need a coating for the exterior of the tank, for protection from the elements, and to prevent rust. On any good steel tank, you will find that a durable powder coating process is usually used to give the outside of the tanks a longer lasting finish. They can be had usually in black or white as standard colors.
One thing to keep in mind, while the powder coat will protect the outside of the tank, the interior of a tank made from steel is bare, and needs to be at a constant higher level of fuel, you want to make sure that you have enough in there to cover the walls of the inside of your tank as much as you can, because doing that lubricates the steel and keeps it from rusting into tiny little flakes.
Steel is also cheaper than aluminium, and while you might think that is a great feature, you do want to keep in mind that these work best if you’re the kind of person that would keep their auxiliary tank filled up for the majority of the time. This can’t be any more important, you want to make sure that the inside of your steel tank is always coated with fuel to keep it from rusting.
This is a problem if the tank sits around idle for long periods of time with no movement, but if you drive your truck around alot, it becomes less of a concern, because driving will slosh the fuel around the tank and coat the insides.
So think about how you fit into these usage categories while you look at the options below, it’s an important choice to consider when looking at any kind of fuel tank.
Also to consider: some of the tanks out there will work just fine for on private property or farm use, but there are DOT regulations to consider for fuel tanks that are used for commercial operations.
For more information on DOT rules about fuel tanks: Read the FMCSA regulations
Baffling is another factor that is important to look for in any fuel tank, these internal structures keep the fuel from sloshing around during transportation and are a need for DOT certification.
Is your 6.0 Powerstroke having trouble starting?
Getting terrible fuel economy?
Do you have a check engine light with any of the following OBD codes?
(Injector circuit low voltage)
If so, you might be experiencing FICM failure. This is a common issue for these trucks, and I think most 6.0’s will have problems with the FICM at some point in their lifetime.
What the heck is this FICM thing you might ask?
- $250 refund with return of your original module
- Upgraded control board over Ford & International OEM replacements - 5 YEAR WARRANTY!
- We will contact you for your VIN to ensure proper programming
- Remanufactured in the USA
$250 refund with the return of your original module! Ford 6.0 Powerstroke FICM programmed and ready to install. This module has been refurbished and upgraded to ensure continuous voltage to the fuel injectors.
The Fuel Injection Control Module – is an electronic module in charge of deciding the amount of fuel to deliver to each of the cylinders. It does this by relaying voltage to close and open each cylinder’s fuel injector, to deliver the pressurized fuel with the correct timing.
As your truck racks up mileage, the FICM starts having trouble in doing its job correctly. A big issue with these is with the solder on the output circuit board. Over time, the solder fails on the connections for the components of the board, and as a result the output voltages drop below the required parameters.
This causes the injectors to not open and close when they should, leaving you with a truck that is impossible or very difficult to start, even more so a problem in cold weather. Also, depending on how shot your module is, you may have already noticed a real drop in your fuel economy,
Damage to the FICM is mostly caused when your batteries or alternator are too weak to do their jobs adequately. These 6.0’s come with only an 110 amp alternator, the same kind that Ford uses on some of their passenger cars, not very robust at all for the powerstroke needs.
This is a bad thing because when cranking your powerstroke, the glow plugs and just the required starting electronics can draw about 230 amps. You can easily see the issue of having a weak electrical system there. A good practice is to periodically check your charging system, especially the batteries.
If your truck isn’t your daily driver, you can extend the life of those expensive batteries by using a desulphating smart battery charger. If it is already too late for your old batteries, it might be time to upgrade to AGM batteries.
An upgraded alternator can also make a big difference in the life on the onboard electronics. A higher amperage alternator for the 6.0 powerstroke is a very good upgrade for your truck’s electrical system.
Testing for a failed FICM
In order to verify if you are in need of a FICM repair or replacement, you will want to check the output voltage on the module itself.
You will need a multimeter and an assistant to perform this test:
- Remove the coolant reservoir with a 10mm ratchet and place aside or remove
- Locate the FICM and the pinout cover
- Use a T20 Torx bit to remove the two cover fasteners
- Set your multimeter to DC volts and attach the negative lead to the battery negative terminal.
- Touch the positive lead to the pin on the FICM that is closest to the driver’s side. Don’t led your lead touch the case!
- Have your assistant turn the key on, but not to start
- Read the voltage, it should be right at 48v and no higher than 49v or lower than 47v.
How to fix your FICM
There are a couple of different ways to go about fixing your defective fuel injection control module, the best option is simply repairing the part that has failed in most people’s broken FICM. By far, the most module issues that people experience come from a failed power supply circuit board.
The good news is that the FICM power supply board is a cheap and easy fix.
This fix works for the 6.0 control module found in late 04-07 Super Duty pickups, and the Econoline vans, which also used the same module up until the 2010 model year I believe.
The actual repair is pretty simple, once you’ve gotten your FICM out of the truck, you just have to open the case and remove the Torx (T10 and T20 bits are required) screws to get at the circuit board.
A new power supply board can easily be found on Amazon:
- Restore proper fuel deliver to the engine by replacing only the failed board, instead of the entire Module
- Easy-to-install, plug and play repair solution - no programming necessary
- High-quality staking material ensures long-lasting durability against vibration
- Vehicle try-on testing has been conducted on this part to ensure a trouble-free performance
- Original Equipment (OE) Number: 3C3Z12B599AARM,4C3Z12B599AARM, 4C3Z12B599ABRM, 4C3Z12B599BARM, 1845117C2, 1845117C6, 5010121R94
The best part is that by just replacing this board, the repair is a fraction of the cost of replacing the entire module as a whole part.
The below video is the best walk through that I have seen for this repair, as you can see it really isn’t that terrible of a job.Ford OEM part numbers#: 3C3Z12B599AARM, 4C3Z12B599AARM, 4C3Z12B599ABRM, 4C3Z12B599BARMNavistar part numbers: 1845117C2, 1845117C6, 5010121R94